Sans Voile 2015, Domaine Ugo
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Variety: Petit Manseng, Gros Manseng
Viticulture: Biodynamic, Practising Permaculture & Regeneration
Pairing: Spicy dishes, aged hard cheeses and all ingredients of powerful identity. Anything from plum tart to root vegetable salad with queso de Cabrales
To go further in the complexity, the family of oxidative aromas is rich. Very interesting for fine gastronomic pairings, it has a dominating tendency which can be overwhelming. Here we do in the subtle, in the felted, a hint of walnut, a hint of hazelnut, we evoke the rancio, we remember tasting sherry for the first time. The fruit and spices are always there, in good company. As with Sur Le Fil, the grapes are harvested passerillées and directly pressed (over five hours) into concrete tanks, the juice is then transferred to barrels by gravity. The twist for this cuvée occurs during élevage. Following a year in 400ltr barrels the wine moves into an open stainless steel vat for oxidative ageing without any flor (sans voile).
Françoise and Pierre regularly taste, when they find too much oxidation (usually after three to five weeks) the cuve is sealed off with a floating cap. Alive and constantly evolving in one’s glass this is a mesmerizing wine, ripe fruits and sweet spices are in perfect harmony with rancio-like flavours and complex nutty aromas, a hint towards the finest palo cortados. It's a stunning effort.